Or to give it it's more common name: rabbit. We have one. He is quite sweet actually. Unfortunately he lives in the garden. More unfortunately the bastard thing eats everything in its path - a plague of locusts could not devour more. Unfortunately, dear Freddy has managed to get into the garage. And because he hates me, dear Freddy has decided, for reasons known only unto himself, to eat through the ensemble of wires hanging down from the replaced NSF headlight/fog light/indicators. I have a big enough pot. My life's work is now to catch it.
Monday, 23 March 2009
A letter from America
Well more a forum entry actually from Tom in the USA via the great www.triumphtr7.com. This is going to be the first port of call on the weekend. I am almost exited!
hi steve, here is how to check the ign power circuit.
part 1: you will find a solid white wire on the ballast resistor and also a white/yellow wire. check to see that the white wire has power at all times the key is on. the white/yellow wire will show some voltage, but less than battery volts in run. when in start, the white/yellow wire should have full battery volts to improve the spark for starting. this wire comes from the starter solenoid.
Part 2: if all this is happening, check at the coil + terminal for voltage with the key on and for higher voltage when cranking.
if part 1 is ok and part 2 is not, you have a fault in the resistor pack, if part 1 is ok as well as part 2, the symptoms you describe usually indicate a bad module in the distributor.
this applies to all factory tr8, with original dist and resistor pack.
part 1: you will find a solid white wire on the ballast resistor and also a white/yellow wire. check to see that the white wire has power at all times the key is on. the white/yellow wire will show some voltage, but less than battery volts in run. when in start, the white/yellow wire should have full battery volts to improve the spark for starting. this wire comes from the starter solenoid.
Part 2: if all this is happening, check at the coil + terminal for voltage with the key on and for higher voltage when cranking.
if part 1 is ok and part 2 is not, you have a fault in the resistor pack, if part 1 is ok as well as part 2, the symptoms you describe usually indicate a bad module in the distributor.
this applies to all factory tr8, with original dist and resistor pack.
Note to Fil: if you could pick the brains of the Lucas God that would be handy! I am getting a spark on one of the plugs when I turn the key. As soon as the key is in the "rest" position, bye bye spark. I am led to believe that it could be the ballast resistor, the distributor or the coil. The above forum posting may point to the problem. I now have a spare ballast resistor to check, but if your Dad has any further ideas, please let me know!
Thursday, 19 March 2009
Which Ignition?
After asking on a forum, is it the electronic ignition or the ignition? Answers on a postcard please.
"It sounds like you are getting ignition power when the key is in the 'start' position, but not the 'run' position. I'd look towards the ignition switch."
"It sounds like you are getting ignition power when the key is in the 'start' position, but not the 'run' position. I'd look towards the ignition switch."
The great starting debacle pt 7
Hello and all of that. So here we are again. Since we last spoke, there have been some changes made in our clan. It has been decided, stupidly most probably, that the lovely and very reliable Volvo S40 is going. A 7 seater planet killing towing machine is to be its replacement. Also going is the minging but very reliable Volvo V70 as the planet killer will effectively take its place. That means that the Beast is to become the second car and my transport to work. This all sounds great as this is what I have wanted for 20 years. And then I go into the garage. And then I am presented with my "project".
Since I lobbed my spanners a couple of weeks ago, we have moved on a little bit. I had the starter reconditioned. This was put into place on Saturday. Although it sounded better, it still didn' t fire. #70th plug removal showed the usual - fuel soaked plugs. These were cleaned and replaced.
It was then decided to bypass the fuel pump as it had been suggested before and I hadn't checked it, and I didn't really know what else to do. After borrowing a submersible pump from Paul, I had to get some fuel. Returning with the fuel, I met Stuart/Stewart. Only turns out that 6 doors away there lives a bloke who used to work for Grinnall!!!
It was like watching a surgeon at work! Off came the SU's and out came the screwdrivers. He was working so fast that he looked like he had four arms. #71st removal and the plugs were cooked and replaced. Cock!
Very very nearly. It ALMOST starts when the key is turned. But as soon as the key is returned to the "run" position, it loses its spark. Stuart/Stewart suggested it may be the electronic ignition or at least a lead going to it / from it.
This is now the Holy Grail:
Wednesday, 4 March 2009
Monsters
Monsters and evil still lurk in my garage which is why there has been no recent blog updates. By evil I mean the Beast. We are still not friends. I am still very reluctant to go anywhere near it. I had the starter motor looked at - it were buggered. Yes I know that this fact might explain the starting debacle, however, I am loathed to refit the recon'd starter through fear of having to begin a post entitled "The great starting debacle pt 7". Oh and I haven't picked up the starter yet either!
You all know what's on the To Do List. You also all know that it don't start either. But. For some unknown and strange reason. I bought the Beast a tonneau cover today. Am I trying to ignore my true feelings?
You all know what's on the To Do List. You also all know that it don't start either. But. For some unknown and strange reason. I bought the Beast a tonneau cover today. Am I trying to ignore my true feelings?
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