Overheating (Sunday)

Time for the thermostat to come out. Why is the water in the block still green? Now I know why! When the water in the block gets too hot, the thermostat lets the water out and through the radiator.

The thermostat was tested in some hot water and found to be buggered. So, without that in, the water should all mix up together nicely and the engine should be cooler? Alas no. It was still at 3/4 although, it took a while longer to get there.

What next?

Overheating (Saturday)

It was a long day and unfortunatly not the most productive...

We visited a scrapyard to get another fan. This was removed from it's plastic surround, the blasdes cut to size and then placed in the TR's fan holder cage thing.

We then drained the radiator of all of it's rustyness, reconnected and refilled with tap water only.

And then started the car again. I went up and down the road a bit. It got to 3/4 again.

Lionel tested the temperature guage by doing something electric to the original clock console. The temperature guage was exactly the same - stuck on 3/4.

The fans were not connected, but that shouldn't make any difference as I hadn't even been anywhere.

What next ?

F F S

I hoped that the euphoria of having the Beast back might have lasted longer than a day. But alas. On Saturday, I gave it a clean inside and out and then took it round to see Ed, (a 20 second journey), then to ma's (1 min), then to Line's (30 secs). I then decided to go for a bit of a run. I went down the famous Husum Way, turned right to see if the house I want is still for sale, and stopped. The temp guage was at three quarters. It used to stop nicely at half. Thus on Sunday, off came the fans as I know that the right hand one doesn't work and needs replacing. And here they are ...

So what's the problem? Any of these then ...
1. The temp gauge
It is the one from the Teabag. How do I know it works properly? I don't! It needs testing, or changing back again with the original one.

2. The sender
The sender is new. How do I know it works properly? I don't!

3. The radiator
Is it blocked inside? Might be. I did put some rad weld in. Could it have welded the whole radiator?! It needs flushing. It may need replacing? I know it is the TR7 rad but I am not replacing it with the v8 rad at £250+

4. The rad fans
See above, there is only one. But it worked with only one last time it was on the road, two long years ago. BUT, we rewired it when we did all of the wiring. It pushes and pulls. Is it supposed to push or pull, have we got it the right way round?

5. The thermostat
I haven't changed this. Do I need to? Does it just operate an electric fan - which I haven't got? Or does it just operate one of them viscous jobbies - which I haven't got?

6. The ignition timing
I got this off one of the sites off the net. Apparently, if the timing is about 4-5° off you will get an overheating engine. I've been told that the carbs are worn and need replacing. It has been set to get through the emissions on the MOT, but still plays up at 3000 rpm+. Could it be this then?

I REALLY am getting fed up of this crap now. Hobbies are supposed to give pleasure. This doesn't!

It's Back !

It's back! I picked it up today. It's much much much better and is driveable. BUT it still plays up at high revs.

The failure list this time was:
01) n/s fr position lamp not working
02) o/s rr position lamp not working
03) fr windscreen washer provides insufficient washer liquid
04) driers seat insecure
05) n/s fr wheel nut missing
06) n/s fr floor body or chassis has excessive corrosion (in a TR? Can that be?!)
07) as 6) but o/s rr
08) fr brake application uneven
09) parking brake efficiency below requirements
10) exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content excessive
11) exhaust emissions hydrocarbon content excessive

Anyway, the final bill included;
MOT, 2x front brake hoses; 4x front brake pipes & ends; 2x bulbs; washer pump; fuel (!); 3 plugs; seal & repair rear fuel; remove an drepair front seat; strip and free front brakes; strip and free rear brakes; strip andc lean carbs; Travel Gas to fiddle with the emissions.

The garage's suggestions included: new carbs as the current ones are worn; an oil and filter change

The MOT advisory was: Offside outer track rod end joint cover split

Nearly Done!

Should be back tomorrow!

Another MOT Update

Top Tip: Never say to your mechanic: "no rush mate as I am going on holiday for 2 weeks during August". 

This is now week 5, although some progress is being made. The stopping starting was a combinatkion of no fuel and me forgetting to tell him that the fuel pump works off a dashboard switch! I found out today that it was much worse than feared. I walked in to find the drivers seat out of the car, to the side, still smoking where he'd had to weld the back back together (yes it was broken but I quite liked it as it tilted back nicely thus helping ease in my lardy torso) as it was around the seat belt anchor and thus MOTable. 

The lack of brakes was down to virtually seized rear drums and front calipers. Some of the brake pipes and brake hoses have been changed as they were either leaking or rusty. Phil now says that when the pedal is pressed, you can feel some bite AND the pedal comes ack up properly, ie, the brakes come on and go off again! That has to be an improvement!

And there are now 8 cylinders and the carbs are balanced. I wait to see how it goes with my foot to the floor.

I will pay another visit on Monday as we appear to be nearly there. I fear the bill now mind.